When to Plant Beans

Short answer

• Plant beans outdoors after the last spring frost has passed and the soil has warmed to at least 60 degrees Fahrenheit (16 degrees Celsius) at seed depth. For most gardeners, that means sowing directly into the garden in late spring, then sowing bush beans again every 10 to 14 days for a steady harvest. Lima beans need warmer soil, about 65 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit (18 to 21 degrees Celsius), and fava beans are the exception, since they prefer cool weather and go in early in spring. The exact date varies a great deal by location, so use your local last frost date and a soil thermometer rather than a date copied from another region.

Why bean timing matters more than the calendar date

Beans are warm season plants, and timing is the decision that most often decides whether they thrive or fail. A bean seed sown into cold, wet soil may rot before it ever sprouts, while the same seed sown two weeks later into warm soil can emerge in under a week and grow strongly. Planting early does not usually buy an earlier harvest. In many cases, a bean planted later into warm soil catches up with, and passes, a bean that sat cold and wet in the ground.

That is why experienced gardeners talk about conditions, not just dates. Two conditions have to line up before beans go outside: frost danger has passed, and soil is warm enough. A warm afternoon alone is not enough. Soil warms more slowly than air, and a sunny day in early spring can be followed by a cold night that undoes the progress. A seed packet date is a starting point, not a promise, because the same calendar date can mean warm soil in one town and cold mud in another.

Timing also shapes the rest of the season. Beans need a frost free stretch long enough to grow, flower, and fill pods, and planting too late in a short season region can mean plants are still loaded with small pods when the first fall frost arrives. Getting the first sowing right, and then spacing later sowings well, is what turns a single flush of beans into a harvest that lasts all summer. This article is about timing only: when to sow, when to sow again, and when to stop. For what happens after the seed sprouts, see How Do Beans Grow, and for day to day care through the season, see How to Cultivate Beans.

The two checks before beans go outside

Every bean planting decision comes down to two checks. Both must pass. A date on the calendar passes neither check by itself.

Check 1: Frost danger has passed

Beans are tender annuals, and frost can kill young bean plants outright. The University of New Hampshire Extension advises waiting to plant beans until after the last predicted spring frost in your hardiness zone, then considering waiting a bit longer. Virginia Tech Cooperative Extension gives the same core advice: seed after danger of frost is past. The University of California Statewide Integrated Pest Management Program likewise says to plant the seed only after the danger of frost has passed, and notes that at temperatures below 60 degrees Fahrenheit, plants can be injured or killed by light frosts.

The last frost date is the anchor for the whole bean calendar. It is the average date of the last spring frost in a given area, based on past weather records. It is an average, not a promise. In about half of years, the last frost will fall after that average date, and in about half it will fall before it. Treat it as a planning guide, and keep watching the forecast even after you plant. Many gardeners wait a little beyond the average last frost date before sowing, especially if nights are still cool, as a margin against a late frost. The New Hampshire guidance supports exactly that caution: wait for the frost date, then consider waiting a bit longer.

If you are starting a whole vegetable garden for the first time, the frost date is the same anchor for every warm season crop. Our guide to How to Start a Vegetable Garden for Beginners uses it the same way, as the line between cool season sowing and warm season planting.

Check 2: Soil has warmed to at least 60 degrees Fahrenheit

Soil temperature is the check most often skipped, and the one that explains many disappointing early plantings. Air can feel warm while soil at seed depth is still cold, especially after a wet spring or in a shaded bed. Beans will not germinate well when the soil temperature is less than 60 degrees Fahrenheit, according to the University of New Hampshire Extension, and seed planted in cold soil germinates slowly and is susceptible to rotting. The University of California program states the same threshold in the same terms: green beans require soil temperatures of 60 degrees Fahrenheit or higher, and in cooler soil, seeds rot quickly and growth is retarded. The University of Minnesota Extension puts it plainly as well: bean seed planted in cold soil may rot rather than germinate, and plant growth will be very slow in cooler weather.

Treat 60 degrees Fahrenheit (16 degrees Celsius) as the floor for common beans, and 65 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit (18 to 29 degrees Celsius) as the comfortable range for germination, growth, and good yields, which is the optimum range given by the University of California program. Virginia Tech describes the preferred temperature range for beans as warm, 65 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Do not chase an exact degree: soil temperature changes through the day and varies across a garden. What matters is a steady reading at or above the floor, not a single warm afternoon.

Lima beans need more warmth than common beans. Virginia Tech states that soil temperature must be 65 degrees Fahrenheit for five days in order for lima beans to germinate well. The University of New Hampshire Extension sets the lima threshold higher, at 70 degrees Fahrenheit, and the University of California program agrees, saying limas prefer even higher temperatures, beginning at 70 degrees Fahrenheit. The sources differ slightly on the exact figure, so the practical rule is to wait until soil is at least 65 degrees Fahrenheit and rising, and warmer still if your spring is slow, before sowing limas. In a cool summer region, limas may perform poorly even when sown at the right time, a point the University of Minnesota Extension makes about Minnesota gardens.

How to measure soil temperature

A soil thermometer costs little and removes the guesswork. Measure in the morning, at seed depth, in the bed where the beans will grow. Beans are sown about 1 inch deep, so measure at about 1 to 2 inches deep. Take readings on several mornings rather than trusting one warm afternoon reading. Soil warms during the day and cools at night, so a morning reading is the conservative figure, and a run of mornings at or above 60 degrees Fahrenheit is a much better signal than a single warm day.

If readings are still bouncing below 60 degrees Fahrenheit, wait. A bed in full sun warms faster than a shaded bed, and a raised bed warms faster than low, wet ground, because it drains and catches more sun. Dark soil warms faster than pale soil. None of that changes the rule: sow when the thermometer says the soil is ready, not when the calendar says it should be. The University of Minnesota Extension makes the same point for vegetable planting generally, calling soil temperature the best indicator for when to plant.

Soil condition matters alongside temperature. Beans grow best in well drained soil, and the University of New Hampshire Extension recommends a soil pH in the range of 6.0 to 6.8, with compost or rotted manure worked into the bed before planting. If your soil is heavy clay or very sandy, working in compost improves both drainage and warmth, since a bed that drains well warms sooner in spring. For more on building that kind of soil, see Organic Matter and Soil. Note that garden beds use garden soil, not potting mix, and the differences are explained in Garden Soil vs Potting Soil vs Potting Mix.

How to find your last frost date

Your last frost date comes from local records, so local sources beat national charts. Start with your local cooperative extension service, which publishes frost dates and planting guidance for its own county or state. Seed packets, garden centers, and local gardening calendars often repeat the same local dates, and they are useful cross checks, but the extension figure should carry the most weight when sources disagree.

The USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map is a different tool, and it is easy to confuse the two. Hardiness zones are based on average annual extreme minimum winter temperatures, with each zone covering a 10 degree Fahrenheit range. The current map is the 2023 edition, based on 30 years of temperature data from 1991 to 2020. A zone tells you about winter cold and which perennial plants are likely to survive winter. It does not, by itself, give you a last frost date, because spring warming, elevation, and nearby water all affect when frost finally ends. Use your zone as background, and use your local last frost date as the planning anchor. Microclimates shift dates inside a single town as well: a south facing bed against a warm wall warms earlier than a low, shaded spot where cold air pools.

To find your zone, use the official USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map and enter your ZIP code. Then take the zone as a rough guide to your season length, and take the frost date from your local extension service as the date you actually plan around.

Regional timing: broad planning ranges, not local dates

The ranges below are broad planning guides, not local dates. They show how the same two checks play out in different climates. Always replace them with your local extension dates.

Cold regions: short seasons, late starts

In cold northern regions, the wait is the longest. The University of Minnesota Extension notes that in much of Minnesota, soil is not warm enough for beans until late May or even early June. That is typical for USDA zones 3 and 4, where the last spring frost comes late and the soil warms slowly. Gardeners in these regions usually get one main sowing window, with perhaps one or two succession sowings of fast bush varieties. Choose early maturing varieties, and count the season carefully: with only a short frost free stretch, a late first sowing leaves little room for recovery if it fails.

Temperate regions: the classic late spring window

In temperate regions, roughly zones 5 through 7, the first sowing usually falls in late spring, once the last frost has passed and soil holds 60 degrees Fahrenheit. The exact week varies widely with elevation, distance from the coast, and the character of the spring, which is why a local date matters more than any regional average. These regions usually support a full succession program, with bush beans sown every 10 to 14 days through midsummer, and pole beans sown once or twice for a long, continuous harvest.

Warm regions: two windows, spring and late summer

In warm regions, roughly zones 8 through 10, beans are a two window crop rather than a single season planting. The spring window opens early, once frost danger has passed and soil has warmed, and a second window opens in late summer as temperatures moderate toward fall. The University of California program illustrates this pattern with planting dates for California: on the South Coast, from San Luis Obispo County south, beans can be planted from March through August; in the Interior Valleys, including the Sacramento and San Joaquin valleys, the windows are April through May and July through August; on the North and North Coast, from Monterey County north, the window is May through June. The program stresses that these dates are only approximate, because climate can vary even in small sections of the state, and gardeners should check with their local UC Master Gardener program for more precise dates. That caution applies everywhere: regional dates are a starting point, and local guidance is the authority.

Hot and desert regions: plant around the heat

In desert valleys, the University of California program gives January through March and August as the bean planting windows, with the hot middle of the year avoided. The logic applies to any very hot region. Beans flower and set pods best in moderate warmth, and extreme heat during flowering can cause blossoms to drop without setting pods. Virginia Tech lists blossom drop from excessive heat and dry winds among the common cultural problems for beans. The University of Minnesota Extension notes the same effect for pole beans: when the weather is extremely hot during flowering, bean plants may not set fruit, and pole beans will fail to set only a few pods, then continue producing more once the weather returns to normal. In hot regions, that makes timing a matter of dodging the worst heat: sow so that flowering lands in milder weather, and use the cooler shoulders of the year.

Bush beans, pole beans, and other types: timing differs

Bean type changes the timing plan, because bush and pole beans use the season differently.

Bush beans are compact, upright plants that need no support, growing about 2 feet tall, according to the University of Minnesota Extension. They flower and set pods over a short span, then produce a large flush of beans at one time. That concentrated harvest is useful for canning and freezing, since a whole row can be picked at once. It also means a single sowing gives a short harvest, which is why bush beans are the type most often sown in succession. Sow bush beans about 1 to 1.5 inches deep, following the University of New Hampshire Extension guidance, and expect the first picking about 50 to 60 days after sowing for snap beans, the maturity range given by Virginia Tech.

Pole beans are twining vines growing up to 6 feet and sometimes taller, which must be supported with a trellis or similar structure, according to the University of Minnesota Extension. They flower and produce new pods all through the season, so one planting can be picked many times across the summer, and they are well suited to smaller gardens because they use vertical space. Pole beans take longer to reach picking size, 60 to 110 days according to Virginia Tech, so they need an earlier start in short season regions, and there is usually no need for succession planting, since the same plants keep bearing until frost. Put the support in place at planting time, as the University of Minnesota Extension advises, so that later work does not disturb the roots.

Half runner beans sit between the two habits, with runners about 3 feet long, and are generally grown like bush beans, according to Virginia Tech, though trellising may increase production.

Lima beans, as noted above, need warmer soil than common beans, and a somewhat longer growing season. Bush limas mature about 10 to 15 days earlier than pole limas, according to Virginia Tech, and pole limas need 85 to 110 days. In cool regions, limas are a gamble even with good timing, and many gardeners in those regions grow shell beans or soybeans instead, as the University of Minnesota Extension suggests.

Fava beans break the pattern entirely. Unlike other beans, they require conditions similar to those needed to grow peas: cool temperatures with highs only into the low eighties, according to the University of Minnesota Extension. Virginia Tech likewise notes that favas are sown early in spring, do not grow well in warm weather, and may be ready as green shell beans in late June or early July if sown in April. The University of California program agrees that favas are more tolerant of frosts and can be planted earlier for earlier harvests. If you plant favas at bean time in warm soil, you have planted them too late.

Succession planting: keeping beans coming all summer

Succession planting means sowing a new batch at regular intervals so that the harvest stays steady instead of arriving all at once. For bush beans, the extension guidance is consistent. The University of New Hampshire Extension advises making successive plantings of green bush beans 10 to 14 days apart until about mid July. Virginia Tech advises planting in intervals of 10 to 14 days for a continuous supply, and planting several crops of bush beans two to three weeks apart until August 1. The University of Minnesota Extension advises planting bush beans in succession every two weeks until early August, for production throughout the summer and into fall.

In practice, that means marking the calendar from your first sowing. Sow the first batch when the soil reaches 60 degrees Fahrenheit. Sow the next batch 10 to 14 days later, and keep going at that interval through midsummer. Each batch will come into bearing about 50 to 60 days after sowing, so the batches ripen in sequence rather than all together. If you are going to be away and unable to harvest for a stretch, skip a planting, since pods left too long on the plant turn tough and slow further production.

Pole beans need a different approach, or rather, almost no succession at all. Because pole beans flower and bear until frost, one planting, or at most a second planting a few weeks after the first to cover late season gaps, is usually enough. The University of Minnesota Extension states this directly: pole beans will continue to flower and bear until frost, so there is no need for succession planting.

A practical succession calendar looks like this, using a first sowing in late May as an illustration only. Replace the dates with your own first sowing date.

1. First sowing: when soil reaches 60 degrees Fahrenheit after the last frost. First picking about 50 to 60 days later.
2. Second sowing: 10 to 14 days after the first. First picking about 50 to 60 days after that sowing.
3. Third sowing: 10 to 14 days after the second, and so on through midsummer.
4. Last sowing: timed so the plants can mature before the first fall frost, as explained below.

When to stop sowing: counting back from the first fall frost

The last sowing is set by the other end of the season. Snap beans need 50 to 60 days from sowing to first picking, according to Virginia Tech, and plants also need time to keep bearing after that first picking. So count back the variety’s days to maturity from your average first fall frost date, and then allow extra time for slower growth as days shorten and nights cool. In northern gardens, the extension guidance effectively sets the limit: the University of New Hampshire Extension ends succession plantings about mid July, Virginia Tech says until August 1, and the University of Minnesota Extension says until early August. In warm regions with a late first frost, the last sowing can fall much later, and a late summer sowing can produce a fall crop, as the California planting windows show.

The count back method is more reliable than any fixed calendar date, because it uses your own frost date and your own variety. Write down the average first fall frost date, subtract the days to maturity printed on the seed packet, and subtract another week or two as a margin for cooling weather. If that date has already passed, the window for that variety has closed for the year, and a faster maturing variety is the only way to fit another sowing in.

Fall planting and second crops

In warm regions, fall beans are a real second season rather than a stretch of the first. The University of California program shows the pattern: in the Interior Valleys, a July through August sowing produces a fall harvest, and in the Desert Valleys, an August sowing does the same. The aim is to time sowing so that plants establish while the soil is still warm, flower as temperatures moderate, and finish before cold weather arrives. Use the count back method above, and choose a variety with a short days to maturity figure so the crop finishes in time.

In cooler regions, there is usually no useful fall bean window. A late sowing may germinate well in warm August soil, then stall as nights cool, and be caught by frost with only small pods. That is a common late season disappointment, and it is better to let the bed go to a cool season crop than to sow beans that cannot finish.

What happens if you plant beans too early

Planting too early is the most common bean timing mistake, and its effects show quickly. Seed sown into soil below 60 degrees Fahrenheit germinates slowly, and much of it rots before it emerges, especially in heavy or wet soil. The University of New Hampshire Extension, Virginia Tech, the University of Minnesota Extension, and the University of California program all describe the same sequence: cold soil, slow germination, rotting seed. Seedlings that do emerge grow slowly in cool temperatures, and a light frost can injure or kill them. The result is a patchy row with gaps, weak plants, and a harvest that arrives later, not earlier, than a sowing made into warm soil.

An early sowing is not always a total loss. If only part of the row fails, you can fill the gaps by re-sowing once the soil has warmed, and the re-sown seed will usually catch up fast, because germination at around 60 degrees Fahrenheit takes about 10 to 15 days, according to the University of California program, and is much faster in warmer soil. But re-sowing costs seed and time, and a second failure is possible if the soil is still cold. The safer course is to wait for the thermometer.

Starting beans indoors does not solve the early problem well. Both the University of Minnesota Extension and the University of California program present direct sowing into warm, frost free garden soil as the standard method, and the University of California program states directly that it is best to direct seed beans into the garden. Beans germinate fast in warm soil, so indoor starting buys little time, and moving young plants outdoors still requires the same warm soil and frost free conditions. If a late frost threatens plants that are already outside, covering them before dark can help, but covers are a rescue measure, not a planting strategy, and for beans, waiting and re-sowing into warm soil is usually the faster recovery.

What happens if you plant beans too late

Planting too late has quieter costs, but they are real. Plants go into hot weather before they are established, flowers may drop in extreme heat, and the season may end before pods fill. In a short season region, a late start cannot always be recovered: the plants may still be loaded with small pods when the first fall frost arrives. The remedy for late planting is better planning next year, an earlier sowing tied to the last frost date, or an earlier maturing variety, since no amount of fertilizer or water can add frost free days to the season.

Late planting is not always a mistake. In warm regions, a late summer sowing is a deliberate second crop, timed to mature in the cooler weeks of fall. The difference between a late mistake and a late plan is the count back: a sowing made with enough frost free days ahead of it is a plan, and one made without that margin is a hope.

Common timing mistakes

Sowing with no last frost date in mind produces plants ready at the wrong time, either too early for the soil or too late for the season. Trusting a warm week is risky, because a warm spell in early spring is not the end of frost, and soil at seed depth can still be well below 60 degrees Fahrenheit. Skipping the soil thermometer leaves you guessing, since air temperature and other gardens are poor substitutes for a reading in your own bed. Sowing limas at the same time as common beans wastes seed, because limas need soil at 65 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit and will sit and rot in soil that is fine for snap beans. Sowing favas at bean time is the same error in reverse, since favas want cool spring weather and fail in summer heat. Planting all the bush beans at once produces a single glut followed by nothing, which is exactly what succession sowing prevents. And forgetting the fall frost at the other end of the season can cut a crop short before pods fill, a mistake the count back method is designed to prevent.

Frequently asked questions

When is the best time to plant beans?

After the last spring frost, when the soil has warmed to at least 60 degrees Fahrenheit (16 degrees Celsius) at seed depth. In most of the United States, that means late spring. The exact date depends on your location, so check your local last frost date and measure your own soil temperature rather than copying a date from another region.

Can I plant beans before the last frost date?

You can, but it is a calculated risk rather than a routine recommendation. Bean seed in cold soil germinates slowly and often rots, and young plants can be injured or killed by a light frost. Waiting until frost danger has passed and soil reaches 60 degrees Fahrenheit is the advice given by every extension source used for this article, and a later sowing into warm soil usually catches up quickly.

How warm should the soil be for beans?

At least 60 degrees Fahrenheit (16 degrees Celsius) for common beans, measured at seed depth on several mornings. The comfortable range for germination, growth, and good yields is 65 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit (18 to 29 degrees Celsius). Lima beans need warmer soil, 65 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit (18 to 21 degrees Celsius). Fava beans are the exception, and prefer cool soil and cool weather.

How late can I plant beans?

Count back from your average first fall frost date. Snap beans need 50 to 60 days from sowing to first picking, plus time to keep bearing, so the last sowing must fall at least that far ahead of the first frost, with extra margin for cooling weather. In northern gardens, extension guidance ends succession sowings in late July to early August. In warm regions, a late summer sowing can still produce a fall crop.

Should I plant bush beans or pole beans?

It depends on your space and how you want the harvest to arrive. Bush beans give a large flush over a short period and suit succession sowing every 10 to 14 days. Pole beans take longer to start bearing, 60 to 110 days, but keep producing until frost from a single planting, and suit small gardens because they grow upward. Both need the same soil temperature and frost free start. For more on how the two types grow, see How Do Beans Grow.

Do beans need to be started indoors?

No, direct sowing is the standard method. Beans germinate quickly in warm soil, and both the University of Minnesota Extension and the University of California program present direct sowing as the way to grow them. Indoor starting buys little time, and transplants still need the same warm soil and frost free conditions before they can go outside.

When should I plant beans in fall?

In warm regions, sow in late summer so plants establish in warm soil and mature as temperatures moderate, using the count back method to make sure they finish before cold weather. In cooler regions, there is usually no useful fall bean window, and a late sowing is likely to be caught by frost before pods fill. Use your local extension fall planting calendar to set a fall date.

What vegetables grow well beside beans?

Beans grow well in a mixed vegetable garden, and planning what grows beside them is part of timing the whole bed. Our Companion Planting Chart for Vegetables shows which crops pair well together. Beans are also among the simplest vegetables for a new gardener to time and grow, as listed in Easiest Vegetables to Grow.

Sources & references

• * University of New Hampshire Extension, "Growing Beans" (fact sheet originally developed by Dr. Otho Wells, former UNH Cooperative Extension Vegetable Specialist, revised February 2001). Used for waiting until after the last predicted spring frost, soil below 60 degrees Fahrenheit giving poor germination, 70 degrees Fahrenheit for lima beans, succession plantings 10 to 14 days apart until about mid July, sowing depth of 1 to 1.5 inches for bush beans, full sun, and soil pH 6.0 to 6.8.
• * Virginia Tech, Virginia Cooperative Extension, "Beans", Publication 426-402. Used for seeding after danger of frost is past, planting in intervals of 10 to 14 days, several crops two to three weeks apart until August 1, soil temperature of 65 degrees Fahrenheit for five days for lima beans, warm temperature range of 65 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit, tender annual hardiness, blossom drop from excessive heat, half runner habit, bush limas maturing 10 to 15 days earlier than pole limas, and days to maturity of 50 to 60 days for snap beans and 60 to 110 days for pole beans.
• * University of Minnesota Extension, "Growing beans in home gardens". Used for planting once the soil has warmed, late May or early June timing in much of Minnesota, seed rotting in cold soil, succession planting of bush beans every two weeks until early August, pole beans flowering and bearing until frost with no need for succession planting, sowing about 1 inch deep, installing pole bean supports at planting time, bush beans growing about 2 feet tall, pole beans growing up to 6 feet and taller, lima beans needing warm soils and a longer season, and fava beans needing cool temperatures with highs only into the low eighties.
• * University of Minnesota Extension, "Planting the vegetable garden" (reviewed 2026). Used for soil temperature being the best indicator for when to plant, and for checking the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map for your zone.
• * University of California Statewide Integrated Pest Management Program, "Cultural Tips for Growing Beans" (archived reference page). Used for green beans requiring soil temperatures of 60 degrees Fahrenheit or higher, seeds rotting quickly in cooler soil, injury or death from light frosts below 60 degrees Fahrenheit, optimum temperatures of 65 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit, lima beans preferring temperatures beginning at 70 degrees Fahrenheit, fava beans tolerating frosts and planting earlier, germination in about 10 to 15 days at around 60 degrees Fahrenheit, direct seeding as the best method, sowing about 1 inch deep, and California planting dates by region, including South Coast March through August, Interior Valleys April through May and July through August, North and North Coast May through June, and Desert Valleys January through March and August.
• * United States Department of Agriculture, Plant Hardiness Zone Map background. Used only for the definition that zones are based on average annual extreme minimum winter temperatures, with each zone covering a 10 degree Fahrenheit range, and for the 2023 edition being based on 30 years of temperature data from 1991 to 2020.